Why Are Glasses So Expensive? Part 1: Frames

There’s quite a bit of variability in prescription glasses prices, both in terms of the frames and the lenses. It’s not always apparent why. We’ll breakdown the differences in frames and lenses so that you can decide what is important to you. 

Let’s start with frames. Four things determine the price: where they are made, what materials they are made of, the complexity of the design and whether the eyeglasses company pays a royalty to a “designer.” 

Most eyeglasses frames are made in China because the cost of labor is lower there. Just because a frame is made in China, does not mean that it is automatically poor quality. We only carry one Chinese made frame line. We use them for our package deal. The very low-quality frames, that are very low price are almost all made in China. It’s more expensive to produce glasses frames in Japan, the United States and the European Union. They all tend to be higher quality.  

Most glasses are made of plastic, metal or a combination of the two. The materials have a big impact on the price of glasses.  

Although there are others, most plastic glasses are either made from petroleum-based plastics or plant-based cellulose acetate. The former is primarily used in a process called injection molding. The very cheapest glasses are made this way. Sadly, even some Ray Bans are injection molded. We do not carry any frames made in this manner. The quality is far too poor.  

Acetates are superior to petroleum-based plastics, but they vary widely in quality. The best examples are made in Italy and Japan. There are cheaper Chinese acetates, but they tend to be lower density and lose their shape more easily. Warby Parker uses this Chinese material. It looks nice, far nicer than injection molded options at similar prices, but they are notorious for falling out of adjustment. 

Nearly all metal frames are made from an inexpensive nickel alloy called Monel. When frames react with skin oils, turn green and eventually break, it’s because they are made from this material. None of our frames are made from Monel. Our metal frames are made from titanium or stainless steel. Both materials are inert and don’t react to skin. They are also very durable.  

Titanium comes in multiple flavors. The best ones for glasses use are pure titanium, beta titanium and gum titanium. Regardless of the home base of a frame manufacturer, most have their titanium frames made in Japan. The Japanese pioneered the use of titanium in glasses and the best examples are still made there. 

Both titanium and stainless can be powder coated for a durable finish, but it is most often seen raw. 

Design has a huge impact on price. The simplest frames are made from single layers of acetate. Acetate can be joined though, creating very complex designs. This is very labor intensive. The uniqueness of the parts used in assembly also drives up cost. Bulk purchased hinges for example are far less expensive than machining a temple with the hinge built in. Examples include Anne et Valentin’s extremely complex Polychrom family and Masunagas frames made with gum titanium. 

Lastly, “designer” labels on the side of frames drive up the cost substantially. Glasses manufacturing companies pay royalties through licensing agreements to companies like Coach, Calvin Klein, Prada, etc. Those companies have little if anything to do with the actual eyeglasses. They do one thing...add cost. None of the frames at Artisan Eyeworks are licensed designer frames. They are glasses for glasses sake. The only Chinese line we carry is made in the same factory as Calvin Klein and cost about $100 less per pair.  

Very much like automobiles, in general the more you pay, the more you get. Designer labels aside, more expensive frames are more complex, made from better materials, and handcrafted in countries that pay fair labor rates. This translates into a better quality, longer lasting products. 

Next week, Part 2: Lenses.